Do I need both 35mm and 50mm? So if you go from a 50mm to a 35mm, you are gaining about 50% more in the frame. If you are using APS-C or FX format, the 35mm lens on it will give you about the same angle of view as a 50mm does on a full frame and a 50mm on APS-C or FX gives you about the same angle of view as a 75mm would on a full frame You can often start with 50mm on a shoot, and then switch to 35mm when you need a wider angle. This is even truer if your position is a little cramped. Compare the images taken with both lenses from the same position and with the same settings. You would see that the 50mm gives you a shallower depth of field and better bokeh With the 35mm lens, you will be giving viewers a vantage point that is similar to what they would see if they were on the scene. Must You Have Both a 35mm and 50mm Lens? Every lens has its benefits and this applies to the 35mm and 50mm lenses. However, photographers do not need both the 35mm and 50mm lenses in their camera gear bags If you have small children but also want to try your hand at more considered portraits, you may well need both the 35mm lens and the 50mm lens. 35mm vs 50mm FAQs Is 35mm or 50mm better for portraits Even though I use the 35mm lens more for everyday shooting, the 50mm lens holds a special place in my camera bag when I want to take portraits or isolate my subject with the 50mm's large aperture. If you are looking for a new lens, and you don't have a 35 mm focal length in your camera bag, well look no further
It allows me to correct the perspective. If you want to shoot some details, a 50mm tilt shift can help, but you can use a 24-70mm lens also. If you prefer having a normal lens, a 16-35mm lens may.. . 50mm lenses tend to be more versatile thanks to their 'nifty fifty' status. Both can make great travel lenses. Neither lens can zoom in or out - they're fixed prime lenses
However, likely the biggest difference in the 35mm vs 50mm debate is price. In this head-to-head matchup, 35mm lenses are far more expensive. For example, where a Nikon 50mm f/1.4 lens can be found for around $450 brand new, a Nikon 35mm f/1.4 lens will run you about $1,700. Where you can get around this, though, is in buying pre-owned lenses By this, I mean you need a 50mm lens or its full frame equivalent if you shoot on a crop sensor. 50mm, to be honest, is not particularly masterful at anything, but it is good at a lot of things
In the debate between the 35mm vs. 50mm prime lens, there is no clear winner. They are both great lenses for different reasons. I want to stress the fact that if you are using a crop sensor camera the 35mm will appear more like a 50mm lens and the 50mm will be closer to 80mm No, you do not need a 50mm lens. I have checked my photo collection (35 years worth of pictures) and the only time I used the 50mm was when I just bought my first SLR at age 14 and could not afford any other lense. As soon as I had a 35mm and a 135, that's all I used The 35mm, on full-frame of course, will open the door to a different type of imaging experience, and it can do pretty much anything the 50mm can do, plus a bit more. Like many photographers, I started off with the classic nifty fifty on film and digital cameras For photographers just starting out, I would highly recommend a 50mm lens as a first lens investment. It is the most versatile of the three focal lengths allowing for both context photos and portraits. The 35mm lens has also been a popular first choice amongst aspiring photographers
The Nikon 50mm f/1.4G, on the other hand, works well on both DX and FX sensor cameras such as Nikon D700/D3s/D3x. Focal length - the second obvious difference is the focal length. The Nikon 35mm f/1.8G has an equivalent field of view of 52.5mm on a DX sensor, while the Nikon 50mm f/1.4G has an equivalent field of view of 75mm . 35mm and 50mm are just the most readily available and often the cheapest. A 50mm lens is a great option too, and there are plenty of reasons to go for one of those instead. But the extra width a.
You're probably thinking to yourself, so if I own a 50mm prime, wouldn't that be the best of both worlds? Yes and no as the 35mm is still wider when you need it to be and the 85mm is much for flattering for close up photos like headshots. Wide Range of Uses Both of these focal lengths do allow for a wide range of uses As you begin to upgrade your photography gear from kit lenses to prime or pro-grade shooting options, one consideration you might have is between the 35mm and 50 mm lens. Both are great lenses and are widely used and loved. In general, the 35mm gives you a wider field of view but also comes with more distortion For narrative you can't beat a fast 50mm, on full frame it's wide enough without sacrificing look, 85mm is better sometimes for fashion work but I could live off a 35mm and 50mm any day. Plus a benefit of shooting on one lens is no need to match the look of the lenses in post and there's no disorientation for the viewer on a visual level The decision between 35mm and 55-200mm is in the end about your needs - 35mm lens gets you close to the 50mm-on-full-frame that has often been considered as the neutral focal length, and the one to use if you need to pick just one I have both a 35mm and 50mm art. The 50mm required significant calibration on my D800e - the 35mm almost none. It was the other way around on my D810. I also had the 50mm NIkon F1.8G. Both my Sigma Art lenses are stellar, but needed lots of calibration work. These are finely tuned instruments. You need both a USB dock and a Lens Align tool
Both the 35mm and the 50mm can be useful for overhead shots where shallow depth of field is not needed. The more lenses you have, the more flexibility you have for making creative food photos. I think it would be ideal for you to have a 50mm lens and also a 100mm macro or equivalent. For cropped sensor cameras, consider the 60mm macro len 35mm primes are fantastic for portraits. 35mm primes have really come into their own over the years. Traditional thinking will make you believe you need 50mm, 85mm 105mm, 135mm and even 200mm lenses to take stunning portraits. While those lenses are great for portrait photography, so are 35mm primes. How do you take a picture with a 35mm lens 35mm and 50mm seem pretty close but I also find them different enough to justify having both. I also find 50mm quite hard to nail the shot just right (framing, etc.) but recently I've finally got rid of the impression that the photo would be better as either 35mm or 85mm, so maybe there's hope for me in the end . Jan 20, 2021 at 03:36 P
Although both lenses work great for portraits, photographers tend to favor this lens. For portraits, you don't really need a wide-angle because the only focus should be the person. Look at the portraits above. Just like we did for the 35mm lens in the previous section, ask yourself which one is better And in fact, the combination of (f/2.8 or f/4) a 17-35mm and a 70-200mm along with a 50mm f/1.8 fits for many occasions, not just landscape. And a good 50mm lens has (almost) no distortions. For what it's worth, there is no 50mm EF-S, they are EF which will work on both yours and FF bodies. To get closer to the view of a 50mm on FF you could look at the 35mm F2, the 35mm 2.8 with the built in macro light, or even the 35mm 1.4's that Canon and Sigma make. No melissafowler: Hi All! Just curious - would it be redundant to have both the 35mm and the 50mm? I have the 50mm and to be honest it barely comes off my Oly, however, there are time where I wish I could get a little more background in. I would be getting the 35mm solely for this purpose as I don't need a macro as I have the 50mm. Overkill or worth the money spent I've got both, and the 35mm gets a lot more use on the DX body. The 50mm often felt a bit like a specialist lens when I had it on, as it had to especially suit that situation, whereas I can go out with just the 35mm and do just fine
I am a big fan of the 35mm lens on a Super 35mm chip camera. This focal length is pretty close to a 50mm on a full frame camera such as a 5d 1d etc or original 35mm film. It is well documented that Henri Cartier-Bresson spent his entire career shooting on a 50mm (on film, so close to 35mm on a super 35 sensor) If you do the math, the circa 45° field of view of the 50mm lens is a bit narrower than the approximated 55° cone of visual attention and the 35mm lens is a bit wider at about 63°. Basically, both the 50mm and 35mm lenses see the world the way our own eyes do—give or take a few degrees Second, you need to know that on a 35mm film camera or full-frame DSLR a 50mm lens is considered a normal lens since its angle of view approximates that of the human eye. However, on a DSLR like your Nikon with its 1.5x crop factor a 50mm lens will have the angle of view of a 75mm lens on a 35mm film camera or full-frame DSLR Really, the 35mm and 50mm focal lengths are both great and you can work around each of their drawbacks if you need to. There are a lot of other opinions out there too and one of the many social media analytics tools that are available can help you gather those opinions and reviews easily I am really excited to bring you this instructional photography tutorial! I am demonstrating the differences between three popular fixed focal lengths: a 35m..
I still don't do a lot of portraits but even when I do I tend to be zoomed in closer than 50mm on my kit lens. I've looked at the pancake lens (40 mm f/2.8), the 35mm f/2, and the 28mm f/1.8. I have a crop sensor camera body so I know that makes the focal length greater than what is listed on the glass I would venture that 35mm and 50mm are too close together to bother with having for most folks. But then I have both a 50mm and 85mm lens myself. I use the 24 and 50 on the 5D and the 85 on a 1D which makes them act like the 24-50-100 set Both are great prime lenses and both have their own sets of pros and cons. On one side, you can capture sharp wide images with the 35mm, whereas 50mm will allow you to hone in on your subjects in a more natural way. The 35mm is great for capturing a beautiful scene but produces distortion in portraits
In essence, I need both of them, but the Fujifilm 50mm F2 has actually opened up a couple of new angles for me. I find it much easier to shoot from the hip, and for those that use the XT-2 / 20 and the tilt screen, you will notice a huge difference using this lens to shoot through subjects to tell a story compared to the 56mm F1. The out-of-factory adjustment of the 50mm C Sonnar when combined with a perfectly adjusted camera rangefinder will show about 1.5cm front focus at f/1.5 and 1m focusing distance, perfect focus at f/2 and 1m focusing distance, and about 2-3cm back focus at f/2.8 and 1m focusing distance The most recent two new acquisitions are the Zeiss ZM 85mm f/4 Tele-Tessar and 25mm f/2.8 Biogon. Both of these have been bought within the last month or so. This year I have also bought the 50mm f/2 Planar and 35mm f/2.8 C-Biogon. These 4 are to sit alongside the 50mm f/1.5 C-Sonnar which has been a longstanding favourite of mine Both are great options, given the low price point, but they do have slightly different strengths when it comes to people photography. In this article, I'll show you several different images of the same model, location, and pose , photographed with both a 24mm and a 50mm lens
The price of each lens differs according to their maker. But in general, 50mm is less expensive than both 35mm and 85mm lens. However, the price gap between 50mm and 35mm is not significant, but 85mm is quite expensive regardless of the brands. Now let's look at the pros and cons of each lens. 35mm Len The 16-35mm f/2.8 and 24-70mm f/2.8 (available for Canon and Nikon DSLRs, and Sony mirrorless) are excellent choices that also give you more flexibility for framing your shot from afar. Wide prime lenses at say 24mm or wider are also a good choice. See also: The Best Lenses for Wildlife Photography When on occasions I do use a 35mm, since I shoot with mirrorless, my favourites are: Voigtlander Nokton 17.5mm (35mm FF equivalent) f.95 for Micro Four Thirds M.zuiko 17mm (35mm FF equivalent) f1. To take group shots with a newborn, the Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM (or Nikon 50mm f/1.8G) is a wonderful option. For lifestyle photography , you'd better opt for a wider lens, e.g. a 35mm one, as you'll be able to fit more of the interior in the frame without heavy distortion - just don't locate people at the edges of the photo, otherwise, they'll.
NIKON Z 50 + NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR @ 16mm, ISO 100, 8 sec, f/5.6. Another negative is the relatively slow maximum aperture. While the lens starts out at f/3.5 when shooting at 16mm, it slows down to f/4.2 at 24mm, then f/5.3 at 35mm, and finally to f/6.3 when zoomed in all the way to 50mm. This becomes a problem when shooting in low. A prime 35mm is brighter and lighter than a wide telephoto lens. 35mm prime lenses are often bright and affordable. These are excellent for everything. From capturing the entire ceremony setup in one shot to photographing the entire dance floor. Best 35mm Lenses for Wedding Photography: Nikon AF-S 35mm f/1.8 G ED. Wide, bright and lightweight http://www.artoftheimage.com - Do I Need the Nikon 50mm f1.8G for My Nikon D750 if I have the Nikon 24-120mm Zoom Lens?Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G Lens. So to see on a 35mm camera the same the amount of the scene that Flektogon records on the 6×6 frame , you would need a lens with a focal length of a little under 28mm on the 35mm camera. However, if you mount the 50mm Pentacon Six Flektogon on the 35mm camera, it is still a 50mm lens, so it will show the same amount of the scene as a 50mm lens.
For me the Voigtlander Ultron 35mm f1.7 lens was the sharpest 35mm lens followed by the Voigtlander Skopar 35mm f2.5. If you need a fast sharp lens get the Ultron. If you want small and sharp enough get the Color Skopar 35mm 2.5 (is how I would select the lens to use) Both lenses set to f/8 and using autofocus at the same point (the tree). The images were both post processed with the same adjustments. 35mm. 16-50mm at 34mm. 35mm crop. 16-50mm at 34mm crop. It appears the 16-50mm lens focused further back than the 35mm lens for this shot, however if the 35mm has better AF then that still counts in its favour
For both full-frame FX and DX APS-C cameras, the AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G is a must-have cheap prime lens. It's sharp and focuses quickly and silently. It's sharp and focuses quickly and silently The 28mm frameline is quite near the edge of the viewfinder so you may need to move the camera around a bit to make sure the framelines are where you want them. It's possible that the .58 finder may be best for you but I can't say with any degree of confidence based on experience. I mainly used the 35mm Summicron and the 50mm Summilux with my M6 If you are going to shoot at night, and that's where the most interesting shots are to be found, you need F1.4-1.8. Here a 50mm prime F1.4 full manual lens (Pentax M 50mm F1.4) Trying to do it with a F2.8 std zoom 17-50mm: These were a few photos that worked that night, while the 50mm 1.4 manual lens had mostly keepers I do notice very brief hunting in lower light with moderate contrast objects, but this only seems to happen when focusing at 5 feet or closer. Performance on my older X-E2 and X-Pro1 is comparable within the limitations of the older processors. The f2.0 trio of 23mm, 35mm, and 50mm make for a compact and capable grab-and-go kit with the X-E2
No doubt, the modern professional lens is required equipment for demanding client work, but do we always need the biggest and fastest to get the job done? A promise of mirrorless has always been a smaller piece of equipment, and the new line of G primes from Sony (24mm f/2.8, 40mm f/2.5 and 50mm f/2.5) were designed to make good on that pledge More Leica R6 Portrait Images - Summicron R 35mm . Lastly, here are more Leica R6 portrait photos from the same shoot with Jada but this time using the Leica Summicron-R 35mm f2 lens (Not 50mm). I think the colours vary slightly as from the different scanning sessions (and me adjusting colours by eye)
For me, 35mm is a good normal, while 55-60mm is a good portrait lens, almost a short tele. The Phase One XT Rodenstock 50mm f/4 covers an angle of view of about 66 degrees on a full-frame medium format sensor (84 degrees when fully shifted, which is way more than what the Phase One XT's movements allow for) 35mm is popular because it's a highly versatile focal length and offers a field of view that's regarded as being close to what the human eye perceives. Do you need both 35mm and 50mm? Each has its own advantages. That said, having both in your kit is certainly not a requirement Do you need both 35mm and 50mm? While I personally love the wide frame a 35mm lens provides, that wide frame can make close up portraits slightly distorted. Even though I use the 35mm lens more for everyday shooting, the 50mm lens holds a special place in my camera bag when I want to take portraits or isolate my subject with the 50mm's large. The 50mm and the 35mm are both cheap, small, and light lenses. Unless you really need the money, it's not like you'll get much from selling either anyway. But then, you're the only one who knows how much you'll need the money I shoot with a D200 and I have both the 35mm f/1.8G and the 50mm f/1.4G. I prefer the 35mm if I am going to be shooting indoors where space might be limited. And I prefer the 50 if I will be outdoors or if I plan on shooting portraits. I find the 50mm focal length on DX to be more flattering when shooting head and shoulder portraits. If you do.
Photos OK to edit. Jun 15, 2011. #3. A 50 will make your pics look as you see with your eyes, a 35 will make the subjects look farther away. So, it depends on what you want a lens to do. I have a 35 & several 50s & almost never use the 35 but rather switch between a 24 & 50 depending if I want a wider shot or not I think it's a matter of preference. Try shooting your zoom at 50mm to see if you like that range. I have both lenses and I shoot portraits for a living. I use my 50mm 1.4 a lot on the D300 and it gets more use than even my 85mm. The 35mm 1.8 I have is great for groups or just as a walk around prime lens but seldom used for individual portraits The main thing that 35mm has going for it is the availability of the 35mm f/2, which is a stop faster than other lenses you will be considering in your price range. However, like I said, it is so close to 50mm that I wouldn't personally choose it over a wider lens. In addition a couple of factors would weigh more in favor of a 24mm f/2.8 35mm is a little more versatilebut a 50mm 1.4 is much smaller and discrete for on the street and night time photographry. Easier to bokeh when necessary also. I rather pair it with a 28 or 24..best of both worlds imo35mm to me is a compromise single lens solution
I think the 35mm is a little more versatile than the 50mm and would be my personal choice between the two. Although I would choose the 35mm, you wouldn't go wrong with either focal length. You simply need to be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of both and work within their specific limitations The prime I would recommend is a wide aperture normal focal length such as an 35mm f1.4 or even 50mm/58mm f1.4 depending on brand you use. The second, the zoom would be either a 70-200mm like. Or, like me, he might end up getting both a 35mm and a 50mm. Using just the kit lens can easily end up as an exercise in frustration, rather than in learning, if the kit lens is the wrong one for the type of photography he wants to do